Ready to welcome eco-adventurers, this southern region projects a Garden of Eden mystique, cradled by high mountains, dense jungles, and blue Caribbean. Once forgotten, now unforgettable, Toledo District and its capital, Punta Gorda, may be the last corner of "Mother Nature's best kept secret." Visitors outfitted with an appreciation of natural beauty have reawakened this rustic area.

Silhouettes of the Maya Mountains preside over rainforests, valleys, villages, and coast. To the west of Punta Gorda buzz more than 30 Maya villages. To the east bob several remote cayes in the shimmering tur­quoise Bay of Honduras.

Toledo's richest gift may be its diverse culture. Maya make up over half of the population. They raise cacao, maize, and fruit; weave jippi jappa baskets; carve ex­quisite wooden bowls; market their crafts; and host ecotourists in traditional Maya villages. Doctors today still treat snakebites with medicinal plants and herbs, as they have for generations. Children still spread cacao beans to dry in front of thatched houses.

Kekchi and Mopan Maya, plus Gari­nagus, Chinese, Creoles, East Indians, and Hispanics - all speaking their own languages - flavor the stew in this capital of culture. Last stop on the Southern High­way, southernmost town of any size, and launching point to remote cayes, Punta Gorda remains small enough to stroll across. Denizens navigate the five streets on foot or bike, using nicknames to shout friendly greetings. Front Street vibrates as fishermen display their catches and Maya women hawk fruits and vegetables.

The trip to Punta Gorda, population 4,900, 210 miles south of Belize City, reveals idyllic scenes of mountains, forests, groves, savannas, and wetlands, whether on the road or in flight. Once reachable only by boat, now eight commuter flights make the trip from Belize City - one hour and US$173 round-trip from the municipal airstrip. For the terrestrial adventure, take Western Highway to Hummingbird Highway to Southern Highway to the end. Except for one nine-mile stretch, these paved roads ride smoothly and take four to five hours by car or express bus from Belize City.

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