Step into another world on serene Caye Caulker, site of soothing breezes, swaying palms, and clear waters, like a scene out of South Pacific.

Signs implore drivers to "Go slow," but few need to be reminded of Caye Caulker's motto. Unhurried is the natural state here. Visitors jettison shoes, worries, even the time of day. Sandy roads host golf carts, bicycles, and pedestrians, but rarely cars. "Rush hour" means too many couples strolling hand-in-hand along Front Street.

The peaceful fishing village of Caye Caulker retains its timeless charm, with a friendly blend of 1,200 Belizeans, 21 miles northeast of Belize City. Locals still free-dive (no tank) to harvest lobsters from old-style wood-slat pots. Skilled shipwrights still build boats the traditional way.

Five miles long and a half mile wide, the island developed a split personality in 1961, when Hurricane Hattie expanded a previously narrow cut. The Split now divides the sparsely populated north, with a marine reserve, from the slightly developed south, with hotels, restaurants, shops, dive and tour operators, and private homes. Front Street (Avenida Hicaco), Middle Street (Avenida Langosta), and Back Street (Avenida Mangle) run north and south, parallel to the shore. A dozen east-west streets connect sunrise to sunset.

Visitors get around Caye Caulker by golf cart (about US$62.50 per day to rent; US$37.50 per half day), bicycle ($12.50), or foot (no charge). Taxi service comes by golf cart or large tricycle.

Hourly commuter flights to Caye Caulker's airstrip take just 10 minutes and US$78 (round trip) from Belize City's municipal airstrip ($109 from the international airport). They fly up to 12 times daily. The covered boats of the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association depart eight times daily from Belize City's marine terminal, arriving at the caye's main pier 45 minutes later, unless they stop at some posh private caye.

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