Things to See and Do | Shopping | Dining | Accommodations

THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Downtown pivots around the beloved old Swing Bridge. At 6 a.m. and 6 p.m., several strong-armed Belizeans crank the relic open by hand. Their efforts allow boats to navigate Haulover Creek, so named when the local folks hauled their livestock and goods across it using manual winches.

Water taxis whisk visitors to Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker, and smaller islands, from a dock just north of the bridge. They depart eight times a day to Caye Caulker, 8:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., US$15 round trip. They go seven times a day to Ambergris Caye, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., US$25 round trip.

Beautiful Belizean stamps are displayed at the Philatelic Bureau, nearby on Queen Street, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Image Factory, on Front Street a block east of the bridge, exhibits the work of many Belizean and other artists, plus shows featuring natural and cultural history. Open weekdays 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., admission is free but donations are welcomed.

The Fort George neigh­borhood contains charming colonial architecture, including the renovated Colton House and stately Great House, both on Cork Street, and the Châ­teau Caribbean Hotel, on Marine Parade. Until very recently, the US Embassy occupied a rambling wooden structure on Gabourel Lane, first built in New England in 1866, then shipped to Belize. A modern building in Belmopan, the capital, just replaced it. Pop into the Belize Tourism Industry Association, on North Park Street, for expert travel information.

The Museum of Belize, launched in 2002 on Gabourel Lane, celebrates the country's rich heritage through displays of stunning ceramics, jade jewelry, Maya artifacts, and more. At the tip of the Fort George peninsula lies the tomb of Baron Bliss, great national benefactor, and the distinctive lighthouse named for him. On March 9 each year, a ceremony at the lighthouse commemorates Bliss.

BTL Park buzzes with weekend activities, a dozen blocks up the coast. Famed aviator Charles Lindbergh landed the Spirit of St. Louis there in 1927. It was the first plane ever to touch down in Belize.

South of the Swing Bridge, the business corridor runs along Albert and Regent streets and Southern Foreshore, which parallel the coast. Merchants hawk food, drinks, and whatnot from stalls in Commercial Center, just off the bridge.

Notice the ornate ironwork and four-faced clock tower on the regal 1926 Supreme Court building, a block south on Regent Street. Another block south on Southern Foreshore, the city's cultural life whirls around the Bliss Center for the Performing Arts. Its excellent 600-seat theater presents dance, drama, music, and art.

Visit Government House of Culture, near the southern end of Regent Street. The stately national museum, built in 1814, displays such artifacts as silver tureens and teapots, plus wine glasses from which Queen Victoria and King George VI once sipped. Then the official residence of British colonial governors, Government House hosted fabulous dinner parties. Today it entertains wedding parties on its manicured grounds. Open weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., museum entrance is US$5 for adults, free for children under 13.

Across the street is St. John's, the oldest Anglican cathedral in Central America. In 1812 slaves used ballast bricks to construct the Belizean landmark.

New in the neighborhood, the Belize Creole Museum preserves and displays the Creole antiques and cultural artifacts of the Makobi Collection, which show­cases proverbs and story telling.
S&L Tours offers explorers insightful commentary during its tours of historic Belize City. Other operators take visitors on horse-drawn carriage tours.

Hail a taxi anywhere within the city for a standard US$3.50. Rates rise for multiple passengers, so negotiate rates before stepping into the cab. Special tourism police patrol visitor areas on foot or bicycle, offering helpful advice and directions.

Western Highway excursions. Just west of the city is Old Belize Cultural & Historical Center (mile 5, Cucumber Beach Marina). Visitors enjoy Disneyesque tableaus of Belizean rainforests, waterfalls, caves and Maya sites, like a tour of the whole country in a single place. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday, rates are US$10 adults, $5 children, free under 6.

Rise above it all, in a turbine-powered helicopter, to view the Blue Hole, Thousand Foot Falls, Victoria Peak, or remote Maya sites. Astrum Helicopters operates such panoramic tours, plus custom itineraries and transfers, from helipads at Cucumber Marina and Western Highway mile 3.5.

Agro-tourists enjoy Gran's Farm (mile 14). Its orchard produces 50 species of fruits and several varieties of each. Many can be tasted. The nursery claims 600 species of colorful ornamentals, open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday, US$15 adults, $7.50 children.

Powerful jaguars pace just a few feet from the humans at the Belize Zoo (mile 29). Called the best little zoo in the world, it provides a natural open-air home for 50 native species. Jabiru storks stalk through its wetlands. Black howler monkeys play in the trees like children. Tapirs swim lazily in their pools. Panama, a rare harpy eagle, poses for photos like a professional model. Some 125 animals delight kids and grown-ups through the exhibits and the zoo's education center, open 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., except major holidays, US$8 adults, $4 children.

Monkey Bay Wildlife Sanctuary (mile 31.5) occupies more than a thousand acres running down to the Sibun River. It offers birding, canoeing, hiking, and swimming. On a zip-line tour at Jaguar Paw Jungle Resort (mile 37), adventurers get a bird's eye view of the jungle by flying above the rainforest - up to 70 feet in the air - on a series of cables, US$55-85. The resort also offers popular cave tubing on the Caves Branch River, US$75-95.

The 52-acre Guanacaste National Park (mile 47), near the intersection of the Western and Hummingbird highways, takes its name from the huge guanacaste tree at the park's entrance, festooned with bromeliads, epiphytes, and ferns. Saunter through a cool, lush, tropical forest as the mammoth trees loom above, open 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., US$2.50.

Avid bicyclists can join the five-hour, 144-mile, Cross-Country Bike Race, each year on the Saturday before Easter, from Belize City to San Ignacio and back.

Northern excursions. A must-see archaeology site beckons from Altun Ha (Old Northern Highway mile 18.9). For a panoramic view of the countryside, climb the challenging 60-foot Temple of the Sun God. Look down at the plaza and imag­ine the Maya ceremonies that took place three thousand years ago, open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., US$5. After sweating, climbing, and exploring the site, Maruba Resort Jungle Spa, in Maskall Village a few miles north, refreshes body and soul. Maruba delivers luxurious spa treatments.

Saddle up for adventure at Bacab Eco Adventure Park in Burrell Boom (Northern Highway mile 13.5). Go horseback riding, kayaking, hiking, and biking. Get up close to 25 native species of multi-colored butterflies, open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., US$5.

Bird watchers may think they have died and flown to heaven at Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanct­uary (Northern Highway mile 30.8), a place for migrating birds and local jabiru storks, the largest birds in Belize, with wingspans up to 12 feet. The park opens 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., US$4. A bit south and west, Bermudian Landing Baboon Sanct­uary provides a habitat for black howler monkeys (not baboons), open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., US$5.

The dreamy New River cruise to the Maya ruins at Lamanai, among the world's most impressive archaeology sites, is one of the country's most popular excursions. The river teems with exotic birds, such as the anhinga, also called snake bird because of the way it swims. Gentle manatees and crocodiles share the river. Iguanas take sun in the trees, while bats hide in the shade. Mennonites in straw hats and overalls wave to boaters from the riverbanks.

The most impressive temples at Lamanai, which means, "submerged crocodile," date to 100 BC. Hardy hikers who scale the 112-foot main temple - still one of the tallest buildings in Belize - are rewarded with panoramic views of New River Lagoon. Hear the strident calls of howler monkeys. Watch as toucans fly. At excavation sites, visitors can see how the Maya buildings grew over centuries, layer by layer, like onions. Masks of ancient kings and hieroglyphics of mysterious events provoke the imagination. A small museum displays fascinating artifacts, open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., US$5.

Caye excursions. Short commuter flights and water-taxi rides take visitors out to the cayes and atolls. By plane, 15 minutes to Ambergris Caye or 10 minutes to Caye Caulker gets a traveler nearly out to the reef. By boat, 15 minutes transports a day-tripper to Swallow Caye to see the gentle manatees. A snorkel or dive trip to St. George's Caye - in 1798 the site of a famous battleground, but now the site of vacation homes - is only 20 minutes by boat. Reach Goff's Caye, right on the reef for snorkeling and manatee watching, in just 30 minutes. South of Goff's Caye, the secluded Rendezvous Caye makes a great spot for snorkeling.

Soon to be one of the hottest attractions is the new Dolphin Program at Spanish Bay Caye, 25 minutes from Belize City by boat. The interactive educational swim program allows visitors to get up close to these friendly mammals. The Hugh Parkey Foundation and Spanish Bay Resort spearhead the program.
Lighthouse Reef Atoll, site of the famous Blue Hole, and Turneffe Islands Atoll both sit out beyond the reef, a short trip from Belize City through mostly protected waters. Tour operators provide day and night snorkeling, diving, sea kayaking, sailing, and fishing excursions. Hugh Parkey's Belize Dive Connection, a leading full-service operator, offers several  such programs from Belize City.

Popular live-aboard yachts include Belize River Lodge's MV Cristina and Blue Yonder, Peter Hughes Diving's Sun Dancer II, and Aggressor Fleet's Belize Aggressor III.

Things to See and Do | Shopping | Dining | Accommodations

SHOPPING
Belize City grows steadily as a shopping destination, fed by development of Tourism Village, where cruise ship passengers disembark, in the Fort George area.

For the ancient Maya, jade symbolized life and eternity. Today, jade makes beautiful jewelry and gifts. The Maya Jade gift shop and museum is on Fort Street, next to Tourism Village. Inside the village are fine shops such as El Papagayo Too, with a wide selection of local arts, crafts and jewelry. Nearby Michael Colin Gallery offers fine watches and designer jewelry. Also near the village, Fine Arts Gallery displays watercolors, oils, prints, and crafts by talented Belizean artists.

A good place to find genuine Belizean souvenirs, such as Maya jippi jappa baskets, mahogany sculptures, and black slate carvings, is National Handicraft Center, on South Park Street in Fort George, which helps local craftspeople to market their creations.

The avant-garde Belizean artist Angela Gegg, also known as Proshka, has her work on display at the nearby Image Factory and at the Princess Hotel & Casino. The work of accomplished Be­lizean artists Carolyn Carr and Benjamin Nicholas, which depict Belizean people, culture, and wildlife, is displayed at the Radisson Fort George Hotel & Marina.

El Papagayo, a fascinating gift shop at the Belize Biltmore Plaza on Northern Highway, offers unique turquoise jewelry, paintings, woodcarvings, and perhaps the widest selection of postcards anywhere in the country.

Travellers Liquors distills the aged Belizean rum called One Barrel, not readily available outside the country. Try it at any bar in Belize, then stock up at Travellers Galleons before leaving. Pick up other spirits and fragrances at good discounts in Lauren International Duty-Free. Both shops are inside the international airport, as are several other stores offering carvings, spices, T-shirts, and similar mementos.

Things to See and Do | Shopping | Dining | Accommodations

DINING
Dining in Belize City pleases any palate. Choose from Belizean, Italian, East Indian, Chinese, international, you name it.

Stonegrill Restaurant, poolside at the Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina, heats things up with fresh fish, beef, chicken, and pork, cooked to order on a volcanic stone preheated for three hours at 700°F. The Radisson's other fine restaurant, St. George's, demonstrates a flair for seafood, chicken, and beef. Try the delicious Thai-style soup with shrimp, followed by grilled whole snapper, and finish with rum raisin ice cream. Themed buffets include Italian, Mexican, and seafood. Le Petit Café, next to the Radis­son, bakes the tastiest pastries and brews the richest espresso in town.

Across the street, Smoky Mermaid has a wonderful shaded courtyard, with a pleasant central fountain, plus an air-conditioned indoor section. Nightly specials give good value, including appetizer, main course, and dessert. The tequila shrimp appetizer and seafood stir-fry entrée are always winners.

Harbour View Restaurant, an elegant dining experience with wonderful food, sits on the water next to Tourism Village. Candlelight, white tablecloths, and the lovely view set a romantic evening. The cream of potato soup, salmon, and other grilled fish entrées are particularly tasty.

The new Celebrity Restaurant offers Belizean and Italian fare, near the Central Bank building.

Dine at the Princess Hotel's waterfront Calypso Restaurant and watch boats from the marina whisk visitors to exotic points of interest. The fresh fish, visible through a glass case, ranks high on everyone's list. Try the tasty seafood soup, followed by grilled grouper fillet. At the indoor SeaView Restaurant, experience a different themed buffet each evening.

A Mexican chef with US experience has taken the reins at Victorian Room in the Belize Biltmore Plaza. His deft touch incorporates tropical ingredients and spices. Try the diced lobster with cheese and spinach, wrapped in a flour tortilla. La Tavernetta, an Italian place out on Northern Highway, serves great ice cream.

Experience nouveau jungle cuisine and exotic drinks, including 17 rums, on a northern excursion to Maruba Resort, in Maskall on the Old Northern Highway. La Palapa Restaurant, at Howler Monkey Lodge, serves homey meals family-style.

Experience Belizean food and service at Sibun Bite, in the Old Belize Cultural & Historical Center. Its rustic waterfront setting provides the right tropical ambiance to enjoy typical dishes like rice and beans with stew chicken. Also out on the Western Highway is Orchid Garden, serving Belizean and Taiwanese cuisine.

New in Belize City is Riverside Tavern on Mapp Street, good for burgers, fries and entertainment. Other popular eateries include Macy's (Creole) on Bishop Street, Big Daddy's Diner (Belizean) upstairs at Commercial Center, Chon Saan Palace (Chinese) on Kelly Street, and Sumathi (Indian) on Barracks Road. There is a Subway on Freetown Road. Half a dozen coffee shops around town serve espresso drinks. Several cafés offer internet access for US$2 per half hour.

Nightlife revolves around the Princess Hotel & Casino, on Newtown Barracks. Tempt Lady Luck at the Vegas-style casino with 400 slot machines, plus blackjack, roulette, and Caribbean stud poker. Two theaters show first-run movies and the arcade has an eight-lane bowling alley. Club Next, also inside the Princess, features a DJ Thursday through Saturday and a live band Thursday and Saturday.

Belize Biltmore Plaza has occassional karaoke. The Radisson attracts a hip international crowd for Friday happy hour. Other nightlife includes Club Level, Caesar's Place, and Putt Putt, all on Barracks Road, and Palm Island, on Northern Highway.

Things to See and Do | Shopping | Dining | Accommodations

ACCOMMODATIONS
Travelers find the country's largest international hotels in Belize City. The Best Western Belize Biltmore Plaza, Princess Hotel & Casino, and Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina provide full amenities and accommodate hundreds. In Fort George, the colonial-era Chateau Caribbean and Great House look and feel quaint, but are actually quite modern. Other accommodations provide great value for the money, like Coningsby Inn, a smart colonial-style house south of the Swing Bridge. The budget-minded find places like Belcove Hotel & Island Lodge and Hotel Mopan, both in the city.

Two great adventure lodges sit within easy reach of Belize City. Belize River Lodge, in Ladyville, is a leading fishing resort hidden aside the river, not far from the airport. Belize R Us, in Burrell Boom, is a smartly fashioned river lodge with a host of attractions just outside the door.

Just offshore from Belize City, practically atop the barrier reef, the premium Lodge at St. George's Caye gives new meaning to the term island getaway. All the rooms enjoy great views from the tiny island, but several thatched cabins sit right out over the water.

A woodsy place to luxuriate, rejuvenate, and romanticize, Maruba Resort Jungle Spa, awaits in Maskall Village, a short drive up Old Northern Highway near the Altun Ha site. Howler Monkey Lodge sits on the Belize River in the Community Baboon Sanctuary. Other properties in the district include Bird's Eye View Lodge, in Crooked Tree, and Silver Fox Guest House, also in Maskall Village.

Budget rooms in the district start around US$10-25. Upscale accommodations go for US$75-175.

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