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Tropic Air

 

Remote waters lure free spirits to chart their own courses...

The joy is in the journey. Just turn a key, catch a commuter flight, step onto a water taxi, or peddle a bicycle. The mountainous terrain, dense bush, and winding rivers around here used to make Belize difficult to navigate. But now the highways ride smoothly, small planes serve small towns, and water taxis go just about everywhere else.

Inspired by visions of Indiana Jones, explorers have a blast scouting archaeological sites, roaring waterfalls, and pretty little cayes. Dodge iguanas while steering a golf cart down sandy island roads. Kick up clouds of red dust on a roller-coaster jungle ride in a 4x4. Wave to Maya mothers and sons as they draw water from wells by the side of the road. Such memories are priceless.

Be spontaneous. Fetch a map. Grab the camera. See and do all the unique activities that only Belize has to offer.

Rental Cars | Airplanes | Helicopters | Boats | Buses | Golf Carts & Bikes | Taxis

RENTAL CARS
All the roads around here lead to ad­venture. Reputable companies with new vehicles make renting a car a popular way to explore. Easy-to-drive well-paved highways connect towns. More venturesome dirt roads lead to smaller villages and attractions. Look for detailed maps at rental car agencies, gas stations, or the Belize Tourism Board.

Emory King’s Driver’s Guide (www.EmoryKing.com) makes a great resource, packed with comprehensive, accurate, and humorous tips on everything a driver needs to know, like road conditions, points of interest, and repair stations.

Locate the four major thoroughfares: the Northern, Western, Hummingbird, and Southern highways. Do not miss the scenic Hummingbird, which skirts the Maya Mountains from Belmopan to Dan­griga. All four highways are paved, except a nine-mile stretch of the Southern from Golden Stream to Big Falls.

Use common sense on the road. Avoid displaying any valuables. Wear seatbelts, required for both driver and passengers. Stay on the right. Observe speed limits: 55 mph on the open highway; 25 mph through towns. Police at checkpoints may look for safety issues, in­sur­ance stickers (on the windshield), and driver licenses. They may also check the trunk.

Admire the scenery, but watch for road signs warning of curves and bridges. Many narrow bridges allow only one vehicle to cross. Head-on traffic appears very quickly when driving too fast. Other hard-to-see dangers are speed bumps, known locally as “sleeping policemen” or topes. They too appear suddenly, even on the major highways. Elevated ramps allow passengers to cross highways. Careful, going more than 20 mph over these ramps can damage the vehicle.

Drive defensively in populated areas such as Belize City, since motorcyclists, bicyclists, and pedestrians routinely dart through traffic. Use extra caution in towns and villages, where children walk on the road and vehicles stop suddenly. Avoid driving at night, tricky even on the best roads. Signs and people can be hard to spot in the dark, especially in the glare of oncoming traffic.

Rocky backcountry roads present novel challenges. Drivers should take their time. Otherwise, excursions to mountain resorts and jungle attractions can rattle the bones. Ask about local conditions during the wet season, June to September.

Have a checklist yet? Write down comfortable clothing, soft-soled shoes, camera, water, snacks, hat, sunscreen, and first-aid kit. Contact-lens wearers bring extra solution to deal with dust, or switch to glasses. Pillows help on bumpy roads.

Bring a cellular phone that roams here, or rent one from the agency, airport, BTL, or Smart, the new competitor to BTL. Foreign GSM phones may roam, but also may cost US$4 per minute. With a local phone or SIM, pre-paid minutes can cost as little as US$0.45.

Watch tire pressure and do not over-inflate when going off-road. Top up the fuel tank and keep an extra quart of oil because service stations do not sit at every intersection. Most stations stay open until 10 p.m. on weekdays, later on weekends. The Shell in Belize City near the Western Highway turnoff stays open 24 hours. Gasoline costs about US$5.50 per gallon. Diesel fuel burns slower and is less expensive, about $3.80 per gallon. Some agencies rent diesel vehicles. Stations accept cash, traveler’s checks, and sometimes credit cards. Ask first.

Rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle to go off-road in search of natural wonders or ancient Maya sites. Conventional cars are not driven off the paved streets and highways. Some agencies allow renters to take vehicles out of the country as far as Tikal in Guatemala or Cancún in Mexico. Im­portant liability restrictions apply.

To rent, be at least 18 years old, 25 at some agencies, and show a valid driver license or international driving permit. Secure the rental with a deposit, either cash or card. Of course, reserve a car in advance, especially around Christmas and New Year. Depending on the vehicle, rates go from US$50 to $110 per day, plus tax and insurance. Shop and compare models, years, and features. Companies do not insure drivers under 21. Speak with home carriers and credit card issuers to determine their coverage.

Before taking off, check fuel, tires, brakes, headlights, turn signals, windshield wipers, engine cooling, and air-conditioning. Record body dings. For Jeeps and similar vehicles, make sure the spare tire locks. Ask the rental agency for a 24-hour emergency phone number. In the event of breakdown or accident, call the police at 911 or 922, then call the agency, then think about repairs. Keep a copy of the rental agreement handy.

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AIRPLANES
Belizeans use commuter planes the way Manhattanites use subways. Step up, pay a little, and the next one leaves in several minutes. Like the subways, the Cessnas sometimes stop and pick up passengers along the way. Pilots hop their little planes expertly from airstrip to airstrip. Compared to water taxis,  planes can save hours from Belize City to distant cayes. Compared to driving, they save hours from Belize City to distant towns.

Hourly flights to Ambergris Caye, for example, take just 15-20 minutes from the municipal airstrip. Maya Island Air and Tropic Air take off for San Pedro Town more than 40 times per day. They also charter groups. En route, look toward the horizon to see the famous Belize Barrier Reef — that white line separating brilliant turquoise below from royal blue beyond. Stare down into the clear turquoise water to spot manatees, dolphins, stingrays, nurse sharks, and boats.

Although driving to distant towns does rev up the excitement meter, flying there leaves more time to enjoy them. The amazing scenery from several thousand feet justifies the price of the ticket. The flight south to Punta Gorda, 210 miles from Belize City, shows panoramic mountains, jungles and forests, citrus and banana groves, wetlands, and sea.

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HELICOPTERS
Even quicker than a commuter flight, Astrum Helicopters take people on custom tours, direct transfers, and aerial photo and survey missions.

Get high on the picturesque Blue Hole and Thousand Foot Falls. Reach distant Turneffe Islands, Lighthouse Reef, and Glovers Reef atolls in minutes by chopper, instead of hours by boat. Save the bumpy 4x4 ride to secluded archaeological sites like Caracol. In the event of a remote jungle or caye emergency, the helicopters can even medevac a patient for stabilization and further treatment. For details, contact Astrum at www.astrumhelicopters.com, 222-9462 in Belize, or 1-888-593-7069 in the United States.

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BOATS
Feel the spray. Smell the salt. See the mangroves up close. Ride a water taxi to Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker, and the smaller islands. They depart Belize City for the 45-minute trip eight times a day to Caye Caulker; seven times to Ambergris. Boats take off from a terminal at the foot of the Swing Bridge. Service also connects Caye Caulker with Ambergris Caye. Locate the life vests and avoid inclement weather.

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BUSES
Belize City and Belmopan serve as hubs for inexpensive buses to major towns. The longest route costs only US$11. Buses run hourly from Belize City to towns in the north and west 5 a.m. to 9 p.m., and in the south 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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GOLF CARTS AND BIKES
While visitors don’t see any golf courses on Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker, they do see plenty of golf carts, the primary mode of transportation there. The sandy streets have no stop lights. Signs in Caye Caulker remind folks to “Go slow,” not that they need reminding.

Visitors must show a valid driver license to rent a cart. Carry the license at all times. Gasoline carts can cross the bridge to discover the north end of Ambergris Caye, for a toll of US$2.50 each way. Use a lock and chain to secure the cart. Use headlights after 6 p.m. Standard driving laws and regulations apply. For reliable cart rentals, check with Moncho’s near the airstrip on Ambergris Caye and Island Rentals in Caye Caulker.

To see the sights at a more leisurely pace, jump on a bike and be “gone with the Schwinn.” Rentals on the cayes go for US$12.50 per day or $2 per hour.

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TAXIS
Ubiquitous taxis move folks around inexpensively, as an easy alternative to rental cars. Belize City taxi rates are regulated, unlike outer districts. From the international airport to Belize City costs about US$25. Confirm the rate, in US or Belizean dollars, before stepping into the cab. Hire only licensed drivers, who have green license tags on their cars.

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